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The story behind the garments

Sleeveless layering vest

Baeja

A sleeveless top worn over the jeogori, open down the front and split at the sides, padded or fur-lined for the cold. King Gojong kept one as everyday winterwear.

Tchai Kim quilts it in nylon and makes it reversible, with velvet ties at the open sides so you can set the fit yourself.

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Pleated robe dress

Cheollik

A robe worn by Joseon officials and military men, made by joining a finely pleated skirt to a fitted bodice at the waist.

Tchai Kim keeps the waist seam and the pleats, then reshapes the robe into a dress you can wear to work or to dinner.

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Hitched-up long skirt

Geodeul

Women pulled their long skirts up at the waist to walk and work. Geodeul turned that everyday gesture into a fixed fold, and no example is found after the 17th century.

Tchai Kim brings the shape back, keeping the raised front line but building it into the skirt so it holds without being retied.

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Trousers for a floor-sitting life

Sapok baji

Men's trousers built for a life on the floor: a wide seat for sitting cross-legged, a narrow ankle, and one bolt of cloth cut with almost no waste.

Tchai Kim keeps the slanted panels and the tapered leg, then opens the waist so the trousers go on without wrapping and tying.

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Baeja, a sleeveless quilted layering vest with velvet side ties Cheollik, a pleated robe dress in a watercolor floral print Geodeul, a hitched-up long denim skirt Sapok baji, wide-seated tapered trousers

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